Orange, Fig, and Gorgonzola Salad

Dried figs work if you cut them small, and fresh pear or ripe persimmon give the same soft sweetness against the cheese. Dried ones are much sweeter by weight, so use fewer than the two fresh figs called for.

Any crumbly blue cheese, such as Roquefort, Stilton or a mild Danish blue. If blue cheese is not welcome at the table, crumbled goat cheese or feta keeps the salty contrast without the sharpness.

Cut the top and bottom flat, stand it up and slice the peel and white pith away following the curve, then cut each segment free from the membranes on either side. Doing it over the bowl catches the juice, which is worth having in the salad.

A simple vinaigrette is what this uses, and something with a sharp acid balances the orange and figs best. Avoid a creamy dressing, which competes with the Gorgonzola rather than cutting through it.

Prepare the parts ahead but dress it at the last minute. Romaine wilts quickly once the quarter cup of vinaigrette is on it, and the figs and orange segments soften into the leaves if they sit.

It is rich enough to sit beside plain roast chicken or grilled steak, and works as a starter before something simple. A little crusty bread is useful for the cheese and dressing left in the bowl.