The Best Vegetarian Chili in the World

Yes, the chili holds together without them because the three cans of beans already carry it. Replace them with another can of beans or with chopped mushrooms browned with the onion, which give a similar savoury weight. Everything after that stays the same, including the 45 minute simmer.

Seed the two jalapeños before chopping them, since most of the heat sits in the seeds and ribs, and cut the chili powder from 1/4 cup down to a couple of tablespoons. Leaving out the canned green chiles takes it down further without costing much flavour. Taste after the 45 minute simmer and add more chili powder then if it needs it.

Yes, fish out both bay leaves before serving. They never soften, and a whole leaf in a bowl is unpleasant to bite into. They go in early with the onion so they have the full simmer to give up their flavour.

Yes, though cook the onion, peppers and garlic in oil first — that step builds the base and a slow cooker cannot do it. Transfer everything except the corn and cook on low for several hours, then stir the corn in for the last few minutes so it stays firm. The stovetop version needs 45 minutes of simmering, so nothing is lost by the longer cook.

It freezes very well, and this recipe makes enough for 8 servings, so it is worth portioning. Cool it first, then freeze in sealed containers and reheat gently on the stove with a splash of water if it has thickened. Refrigerate any leftovers you plan to eat sooner and use them within a few days.

Cornbread, rice or tortilla chips all work, and each soaks up the sauce differently. Set out sour cream, grated cheese, sliced avocado or green onions so people can cool their own bowl down. It serves 8, so it suits a crowd more than a single dinner.